It was all to do with the prints and more. Two nights ago, I was going through this particular collection and realised that there was something very mysterious about it. The unusual tousled prints, the extra long shirt with the exotic bird print that turned transparent from the waist almost as if it was starting to diminish, the odd mix of fabric, the flowing skirts and the addition of velvet. Not only was I drifted away by the collection but also by what set the foundation in its entirety.
23 year old Annabel Luton recently presented her graduate collection which implicitly reinforced the notion of working with fabrics and hand-prints. The young designer meticulously focused on the fabric using calendered fabrics; a luxurious fabric that originates from the Miao tribe. The fabric is made through a procedure where cotton is dyed in indigo and then through many processes covered with egg whites and hammered until it shines in a coppery red tone. The fabric can be seen used on collars and cuffs of Annabel's collection.
The designer also used procedures like batiking and then dying the fabrics, sponging on her drawing of the bird through layers of laser-cut stencils before screen-printing the bird and burning out the top layer of the fabric to make it see-through.
The real power behind the throne was femme fatale Mata Hari; the collection revolves around the exotica of the oriental dance who was also infamously accused of being a spy. But more than the person in real, "the garment silhouettes are based on the costumes worn by Greta Garbo" who portrayed the eponymous character in Mata Hari, the movie. "The idea of birds really came from the mysterious idea of Mata Hari," revealed Annabel.
|Greta Garbo in Mata Hari|